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Gnarly Vines May 2025
Wine of the Month Club Four Pack
2022 Grape Republic 'Rosa Frizzante Yamagata' - Tokohu, Japan (750ml) - $38
Hailing from the sprawling hills of Nanyo City in the Yamagata Prefecture, Grape Republic enjoys a slightly drier microclimate than their neighbors and a soil composition of mostly granite and schist, resulting in a terroir that’s perfectly suited to an array of unique varietals. This cool, slightly funky rosé PetNat is made with three hybrid grapes: Steuben, Delaware, and Niagara which are all hearty, frost-and-pest-resistant and therefore much more sustainable and environmentally friendly. After pressing, the wines begin fermentation separately in stainless steel vats with native yeast, then they’re blended and complete fermentation in the bottle, trapping those precious bubbles. Notes of violet, blackberry, and plum give way to a balance of beautifully crisp acidity and a light touch of tannins. Pair this complex sparkling rosé with Gado-Gado or clams with parsley and onion salsa.
2023 Immich-Batterieberg 'C.A.I.' Riesling Kabinett Trocken - Mosel, Germany (750ml) - $25
Immich-Batterieberg is one of the oldest documented wineries in the Mosel, dating back to 911. The current winemaker Gernot Kollmann took over in 2009 and fully converted to organic farming by 2022. Named after the original founder of the estate, Carl August Immich, this cuvee is produced with younger vines grown on slate soil from the bottom of the Batterieberg hill and other vineyard sites along the Mosel. Fermented and aged in stainless steel for a minimum of nine months with minimal sulfur added at bottling, the wine is a classic expression of a bone dry Mosel Riesling with high acidity, light body, particularly for a Riesling, and relatively low alcohol. The vibrant nose expresses fresh lemon peel, green apple, and a mild flinty, fresh tire petrol note, while the palate is clean and elevated by bright acidity. Pairs perfectly with yuzu avocado yellowtail crudo or a gingery Massaman tofu curry.
2021 Francois Ducrot Saint-So - Languedoc-Roussiilon, France (750ml) - $19
45 minutes west of Montepelier, lies the small, organic farm where Saint-So is produced. Grown in silt and clay soil on limestone bedrock, this 100% Carignan is naturally fermented and aged for 6 months in stainless steel with almost no intervention outside of a minor filtration and a touch of sulfur before bottling for stability. It’s medium-bodied with fresh strawberry, plum and cranberry flavors, a hint of violet and subtle earthy leathery notes followed by slate and limestone minerality on the dry, moderately tannic finish. The concentration of fruit of this crunchy red, beautifully balanced by zippy minerality, pairs perfectly with a garlicky Escargot or a robust cheese and charcuterie plate.
2022 Christoph Heiss Malinga Hotrot - Kamptal, Austria (750ml) - $22
After studying, working, interning and mopping cellar floors in New Zealand, South Africa, and Germany, a young Christoph Weiss returned home to Austria to establish his own natural wine project called Malinga, spanning 12 hectares of the choicest plots within his family’s vineyards. Hotrot is a delicious, chillable blend of St. Laurent, Rotburger, Blauburger and Müller-Thurgau that’s hand-harvested, fermented spontaneously, then aged on the lees in stainless steel tanks for five months. The wine opens with an enticing nose of wild red berries and forest bramble, leading to a light-to-medium-bodied palate of tart cranberry and white cherry followed by a bright, vibrant finish with light and delicate tannins. Pair with kasspatzln, Austria’s answer to mac and cheese, or brettljause, a traditional Austrian charcuterie spread.