From a recently acquired parcel of 80-year-old Trebbiano Spoletino in the town of Pigge di Trevi, the 2015 is the second vintage of this extraordinary addition to Paolo Bea’s offerings. Arising from a cooler microclimate than his “Arboreus”, “Lapideus” spends a lengthy 35 days on its skins after pressing, followed by about 7 months on the gross lees. Deeply amber in hue, it’s nonetheless lean and racy with enticing aromas of apricot, clove and ginger followed by a slightly saline, citrus-peel finish. A beautiful combination of power and finesse, this is an orange wine that transcends the category. Pairs beautifully with strong, stinky cheese or intense umami-flavored dishes like a Hokkaido Uni hand roll.